Wednesday, 30 October 2013

Cosmetic Practice

'The ache of the Queen's arm is fallen into her side, but she is still, thanks to God, frolicky and merry, only her face showeth some decay, which to conceal when she cometh in public, she putteth many fine cloths into her mouth to bear out her cheeks, and sometimes as she is walking she will put off her petticoat, as seeming too hot, when others shake with cold.' 
Rivers, 'The College of St Ignatius', in Foley (ed.) Records of the English Province, vol.1, pg 24

Sunday, 27 October 2013

Contemporary Elizabethan Ideal



Edward Bond ‘The Third Crisis: Drama and Civilization
“The first Elizabethan age ended with the discovery of brave new worlds (and incidentally the joining up of the United Kingdom). We are certainly on the edge of vast new unprecedented worlds, cosmic changes in culture, economy and society (and ironically the possible dissolution of the United Kingdom). But are our new worlds brave, cowardly, explorative or degenerative? It could be said the old Elizabethans plundered the new worlds. Perhaps now we can only plunder ourselves and call it trade."



Alexander McQueen. Autumn/Winter 2013. Available to view: www.alexandermcqueen.com

The Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter look definitely screams contemporary Elizabethan. The jacquard detailing on the dress just reminds me of the rich patterns that were around during the Elizabethan era. If you zoom in on the image you can see that the  jacquard effect looks like a rich velvet with lace detailing and was raised to creating this embossed effect. This effect has been created with what looks to be lace, which was popular.  And then there’s the collar. Although not as elaborate as ones worn during the time, you can definitely tell where inspiration came from for this look. The whole look is brave, creating an entire look on such an elaborate era of fashion and beauty. Recreating a look gone by leaves you open to all kinds of set backs, will the collection live up to the inspiration?  Here I think that McQueen has touched on certain Elizabethan aspects but hasn't gone into so much detail so that the look is still wearable in today's society.



Romero Jennings for Guo Pei couture 2013. Images available on instagram 


The next set of images were taken from Romero Jennings Instagram page during FIDé Fashion Week 2013 in Singapore, showing his work on the models for Guo Pei’s latest collection. The whole styling of the image looks Elizabethan, with the collar, elaborate detailing on the dress and also the wide hips . The makeup is a new twist on a classic. The skin base is pale with a more intense rose cheek. The only difference to Elizabethan makeup is that Jennings has created a smoky eye and harsh brows to compliment the base and cheeks. It’s an alteration on the inspiration that was already there, transforming the look into the 21st Century. 


Vivienne Westwood's Spring/Summer 2013 Global Exotic collection. Available to view: www.viviennewestwood.co.uk


The last images are from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 13 collection, Global Exotic. The collection is based on the modernity  of the romantics and fairy tales. These images stood out to me because of the use of the white makeup. In the Elizabethan era this would have been all over the face and  thicker. Here, the team at Westwood’s has put a contemporary twist on the look by placing it in certain places around the face, like the eyes, which brings out the bone structure of each model.  The look is fairly safe, as the white isn't massively bold. This may be to bring out the patterns on the clothing; the blurred white wouldn't clash with the prints created. This to me is contemporary Elizabethan; using a key aspect of Elizabethan makeup and transforming it into a modern look by accentuating  bone structure that would have been covered up. 

Overall I think that fashion designers and makeup artists are taking inspiration from the Elizabethan era and experimenting with these aspects. Turning them into modern looks with contemporary components such as smaller collars, bolder cheeks and blurred whites to show bone structure. 

The 3 C's

Contouring Complimentary Colours

This week we looked at the concept of contouring with colours instead of a natural palette. We used complimentary colours to outline the areas to highlight and to add bronzer or blush. Then, added white to the features that we would like to bring out, such as the eyes.To determine what colours compliment each other, we use a colour wheel. This is a useful tool to show what colours would work together. 





As you can see on the wheel the complimentary colours are:

* Purple and Yellow
* Blue and Orange
* Red and Green

 Below are my attempts of recreating a complimentary contouring look using purple and yellow:


I started with the yellow creating the base for the look. I then added purple to show the areas where colour would have been applied in a normal natural palette. These are the areas that you want to bring out when contouring, so the cheek bones, along the chin line, down each side of the nose and just over the temples of the forehead.






The white line show the areas where you would generally highlight. So definitely below the eyebrow line, the centre of the eye lid, in the corners of the eye and just above the cheek bone. You can then also highlight the cupids bow of the lip and just in the dip of the chin. Down the nose also is usually highlighted. 


To get the correct line to accentuate the cheek bones, you need to follow the line from the tragus in the ear to the corner of the lip. This will follow the line of the bone.


Above is the finished result. If I could go back into this I would make the colours stronger and bolder to really bring out the areas of contour. The looks created are interesting and definitely have helped me to understand contouring more.

Summer Project



Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens. 'L’esprit Serge Lutens: the spirit of beauty'  Published by Terrail 2001

If i could transform myself with any key makeup trend, it would be this image created by Serge Lutens is well known for creating makeup looks that ultimately look like the works of art. Lutens attention to detail caught my eye, making a vision into a creative outcome. I personally chose this look because of the detail around the eye because this is what caught my eye. The lighter shading at the corner of the eye draws out the eye colouring and also slims the nose. I would use this look to slim my own nose! And to also bring out my eye colouring.