Contemporary Elizabethan Ideal

Edward Bond ‘The Third Crisis: Drama and Civilization ’

“The first Elizabethan age ended with the discovery of brave new worlds (and incidentally the joining up of the United Kingdom). We are certainly on the edge of vast new unprecedented worlds, cosmic changes in culture, economy and society (and ironically the possible dissolution of the United Kingdom). But are our new worlds brave, cowardly, explorative or degenerative? It could be said the old Elizabethans plundered the new worlds. Perhaps now we can only plunder ourselves and call it trade."

Alexander McQueen. Autumn/Winter 2013. Available to view: www.alexandermcqueen.com

The Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter look definitely screams contemporary Elizabethan. The jacquard detailing on the dress just reminds me of the rich patterns that were around during the Elizabethan era. If you zoom in on the image you can see that the  jacquard effect looks like a rich velvet with lace detailing and was raised to creating this embossed effect. This effect has been created with what looks to be lace, which was popular.  And then there’s the collar. Although not as elaborate as ones worn during the time, you can definitely tell where inspiration came from for this look. The whole look is brave, creating an entire look on such an elaborate era of fashion and beauty. Recreating a look gone by leaves you open to all kinds of set backs, will the collection live up to the inspiration?  Here I think that McQueen has touched on certain Elizabethan aspects but hasn't gone into so much detail so that the look is still wearable in today's society.

Romero Jennings for Guo Pei couture 2013. Images available on instagram 

The next set of images were taken from Romero Jennings Instagram page during FIDé Fashion Week 2013 in Singapore, showing his work on the models for Guo Pei’s latest collection. The whole styling of the image looks Elizabethan, with the collar, elaborate detailing on the dress and also the wide hips . The makeup is a new twist on a classic. The skin base is pale with a more intense rose cheek. The only difference to Elizabethan makeup is that Jennings has created a smoky eye and harsh brows to compliment the base and cheeks. It’s an alteration on the inspiration that was already there, transforming the look into the 21st Century. 

Vivienne Westwood's Spring/Summer 2013 Global Exotic collection. Available to view: www.viviennewestwood.co.uk

The last images are from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 13 collection, Global Exotic. The collection is based on the modernity  of the romantics and fairy tales. These images stood out to me because of the use of the white makeup. In the Elizabethan era this would have been all over the face and  thicker. Here, the team at Westwood’s has put a contemporary twist on the look by placing it in certain places around the face, like the eyes, which brings out the bone structure of each model.  The look is fairly safe, as the white isn't massively bold. This may be to bring out the patterns on the clothing; the blurred white wouldn't clash with the prints created. This to me is contemporary Elizabethan; using a key aspect of Elizabethan makeup and transforming it into a modern look by accentuating  bone structure that would have been covered up. 

Overall I think that fashion designers and makeup artists are taking inspiration from the Elizabethan era and experimenting with these aspects. Turning them into modern looks with contemporary components such as smaller collars, bolder cheeks and blurred whites to show bone structure.